**UPDATE** Barrel removal

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11 years 8 months ago - 11 years 8 months ago #21941 by faawrenchbndr
**UPDATE** Barrel removal was created by faawrenchbndr
Tried to remove my AR10T barrel this afternoon.
Sweet mother of Eugene Stoner! Could not break the nut loose with a 24" breaker bar. Ended up stopping before I destroyed the receiver. What the heJJ did Armalite do when they installed this? Galled the barrel nut? Heat did not phase it. Ended up spraying with Kroil.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, someone at Armalite needs kicked in the junk!
Last edit: 11 years 8 months ago by faawrenchbndr.

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11 years 8 months ago #21951 by 13fcolt
Replied by 13fcolt on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
WOW. They are tight, but I've never had heat fail.
I'd let penetrating oil soak over night and try torquing back and forth. Don't bounce on it, just give it a heave tight then loose and see if that works it loose. Keep a wet rag on the upper and barrel to reduce heat soak into those parts, and to keep the heat localized on the nut so it does the most expanding.




If your new handguard comes with a barrel nut, might have to cut this one as a last resort. I hate to even suggest it, but I've had to go that far on an AR15 once.
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11 years 8 months ago #21955 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
Ordered a better block assy,........I have never had one this tight.
I would guess there was not moly lube used on the nut.

Crap,like this really pisses me off when a manufacturer does not even follow their own frickin torque specs.

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11 years 8 months ago #21957 by 10-76
Replied by 10-76 on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
If it does not work this time, heat it up again, and dribble in the Kroil after you have it good and hot. Enjoy one of your favorite beverages while waiting and torque away.

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11 years 8 months ago #21964 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
I did just that,.......got it to about 300 degrees then applied a bit of Kroil.
Going to leave it sit until the new block set arrives

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11 years 8 months ago #21969 by mrraley
Replied by mrraley on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal

faawrenchbndr wrote: Crap,like this really pisses me off when a manufacturer does not even follow their own frickin torque specs.


Do you realize what the torque specs are on an AR-10?

Even on the low side... minimum is 45 ft lbs up to 90 ft lbs.

And with it having a free float tube on there it take a lot in order to make sure the whole in the barrel nut is aligned up correctly for the gas tube AND the index pin on the inside bottom of the hand guard.

Send it to me... I'll get it.

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11 years 8 months ago #21978 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
I may take you up on that, I ordered an Armalite receiver vice block. Mine may have been flexing a bit. I had well over 90 ft pounds on the breaker bar.
I have never had this issue with a barrel nut before.

I do appreciate the offer.

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11 years 8 months ago #21984 by BUILDING MY SASS
Replied by BUILDING MY SASS on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
Though I am not (first hand) versed on the T...I know my A4 C was a real B@tch to Break loose...had it in the Blocks with the Armorer's Wrench at about a 3 o'clock position...with a Breaker Bar...applied Pressure and had to give it a good ol fashioned Wack with a Rubber Mallet to Break it loose...
That was the First time it got Blood out of me...LOL
We have been Friends ever since... :cowboy: :wave:
BMS

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11 years 8 months ago #21989 by OleCowboy
Replied by OleCowboy on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
I picked up a nice plumbers wrench with a 24" handle and I have a 3 foot piece of schedule 40 pipe I put over it, I can just about twist a telephone post out of the ground. You can get a soft bit for it, made out of soft alum.

As for heat I have to do that from time to time. The T6 Alum does not take to heat real well. What I would do is get a heavy towel soaked in cold water to use as my heat sink and then the area that you will be heating you can wrap just below that with some welding wrap that will prevent the heat from traveling.

Then I would use a MAPP gas cyl, it burns a lot hotter than the propane. What you want to do is what I call flash heat. HIGH heat applied quickly. So you want your cyl on max output then heat in a circular fashion to apply a EVEN heat and get proper uniform expansion. If not one side will expand more than the other and it can make it even tighter and harder to remove and the bbl is no longer concentric.

Heat quickly then apply torque to break loose, if it does not, then heat again and do so in steps to increase the amount of heat.

Got a brass hammer, then whack the heated area hard, it should break loose.

I have had to take off a lot of pitman arms that have been on Jeep 10-20 years, rusted solid and heat and a whack removes them every time without fail...
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11 years 8 months ago #21991 by 10before15
Replied by 10before15 on topic HELP........pleeeeeeeeeeeease! Barrel removal
I work in a shop environment and I find using a product called PB and letting it sit for a hour works just as well if not better then heat. :twocents:
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