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Lizardette wrote: My experience with adjustable gas systems in general has not been good.
My complaints about set screws (in no particular order) are thus:
1. Requires a tool to adjust.
This isn't a big deal to a lot of people. I really prefer things that can be adjusted without tools, especially when you anticipate needing to change it.
I stash an allen key for the gas block inside the MIAD grip. I also have all my firearm related bits in my Leatherman.
2. Continuous adjustability.
The fact that it is continuously adjustable isn't the problem. The lack of definite settings makes it harder to exactly repeat a given adjustment. That's not to say it's impossible to do. I'm just lazy about some things and this is one of them. I'd rather have definite settings that lock into place, even if it's just with a ball detent.
I record in number of turns in 1/4 increments from fully closed the ammo cycles best at in my dope book. Just another data point.
3. The screw isn't captured in any way.
I'm not worried about it falling out completely so much. My experience has been that non-captured screws back out under recoil though, changing your gas setting, possibly throwing off your accuracy, and possibly decreasing reliability. Blue lock-tite can help alleviate this problem, when the screw does not get heat applied to it with every shot. In my experience blue lock-tite goes liquid pretty quickly when it's applied to a screw holding anything attached to a gas system. It heats up and the screw backs out, unless...
In this application the ceramic based rock-set is best. Takes up to 1100 degrees and doesn't hinder adjustments or require re-application. (Tell you clean out the gas system)
4. Fouling.
Oh my dear lord... Fouling. When the passage through a gas system is partially obstructed (as this is how set screws "adjust" gas flow), powder residue builds up on it. If you don't remove it and clean it often, eventually it will build up to the point that the screw gets stuck in place and the passage through the gas tube starts getting considerably smaller. It's a real... thing, to get enough torque on one of those small allen wrenches to un-stick a carbon-ed in screw.
On my MGI I've fired 1000's of rounds and never noticed fouling causing the allen to stick or have more resistance than when it was new. That may have to due with quality clean burning ammo. If I noticed a change I'd clean it out. (I suspect my AR-10TU would have even less of this problem)
... I think that's it.
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I have a box full of Leathman, literally, been getting these for Christmas, Fathers day, B day for years. If I have that model its yours, the bit kit you would have to buy, I have a bit kit that I use with my Skeletool CX and going to keep it...Lizardette wrote: You make very good points.
Most of my reasoning is based on personal preference. For the time being, I'm not quite motivated enough to keep detailed records. It sounds like you, on the other hand, keep very detailed records - out of necessity. Because of the number of different loads that you use, it makes sense to keep track of everything. For me though, I basically use one bullet weight (168), loaded to roughly the same velocity regardless of the powder used. When I do change bullet weights, it's never a drastic change. Twelve grains up or fourteen grains down. It's easy to keep track, in my head, of the necessary changes in elevation between these loads.
As far as tools go, I desperately want a Leatherman Surge with their bit kit. It would make life much easier. Recording the number of quarter turns is a good system. I would prefer something where there are marks around the circumference of the piece that the screw goes into and a notch or something on the screw that you can index with said marks.
That's totally me being picky though.
If that's the case, I may have to invest in a supply of rock-set. I had a small packet of it that came with my AAC Blackout Flash Hider, but I'm not sure how much I have left. That seriously sounds like good stuff though. Thank you for pointing it out.
Cleaner burning powder could have a lot to do with a lack of carbon build-up. I'm curious, what powders are you using?
If the screw is stainless steel, that could have a big impact on it as well. The last set screw adjustable gas system I used had a parkerized chrome-moly adjustment screw and gas block. If they'd been stainless, I may not have had a problem.
As far as more AR's coming equipped with adjustable gas blocks, I'm not sure. Market demand drives pretty much everything that's offered. If there are more available, there's obviously a demand. The question is whether that demand is based on an actual need that the majority of consumers have, or whether the majority of consumers just think it's "cool." I honestly have no idea which it is.
You've given me some things to think about.
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I certainly will, got to find that box, bet I have a good dozen in there and I have given some away over the years...Lizardette wrote: Cowboy, that would be awesome. Let me know if you have one and I'll pm you my address.
SOC: Nickel-Boron would probably do the trick. Might be more expensive, but it sounds like it's more than worth it. Also, I've wanted to try the Reloader series of powders for quite awhile, but just never got around to it. I've heard good things about them though.
Most of what we load with are IMR branded powders: 4895 and 4064 (both safe for the Garands that we load for), 4198, 3031, 8208 (I have ONE rifle that likes this powder and only with one bullet weight at that), and 4350.
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Siscowet wrote: Good data. You obviously took great care in assembling your handloads to get such low variations in MV. Look forward to your accuracy data.
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