bluto182 wrote: I did some checking and I guess the "T" designation is a reference to the fully assembled version the lower came from. It's simply a 10B with a full length match grade target barrel. It has an old school A2[strike]1[/strike] style stock. We can't have folding or telescoping stocks here unless they are semi-permanently pinned in fully extended position.
Spent time up in Conn, pretty state always enjoyed driving around the thru it.
I also think your T lower has a Nat Match trigger group which might be what makes it a 'T' but am no expert here, that said we have several that truly are knowledgeable.
I have a T and where I to do it all over again I would go with an upper sans bbl and bbl it myself (not me personally). My driver for this is that the T in complete 20" bbl SS configuration is a good chunk of metal as in heavy metal. What I am wanting to do is flute my existing bbl and shorten it by 2" (18"). Gives a weight savings and only has a small impact on accuracy, range and velocity.
So you might want to consider your own bbl to meet your needs...from 16" to 24" and other factors...
Ok, so I'm VERY biased. I don't have any proof, though I would expect that the lower starting velocity (while not making much difference in raw accuracy potential) would make placing shots past 300 yards more difficult. Even more problematic: Wind drift. It starts to make a difference around about 200 yards and just keeps getting worse the further out you go. The lower the velocity, the more time the wind has to act on a bullet, the more it's going to be affected. It can be mitigated by using heavier and more aerodynamic bullets, but they're not going to be as effective as if they had started out at a higher velocity.
Caveats: I'm talking from the perspective of someone trying to shoot the tightest group they can (or hit the smallest target they can) at long range. If you just want to punch holes in silhouettes, your mileage is definitely going to vary. Also, if you don't think you'll ever shoot further than 200 yards, well, most of my points are invalid.
OleCowboy is right though: whatever you decide on, you're going to enjoy it.
The way I see it there are 2 kinds of targets. There is the bullseye tightest group you can develop and then there is the pie plate. Pie plates are a mans head, chest, game from Hog to Bear, get it in the pie plate and most likely its going doing down. About the only ones that the pie plate rule does not apply is game smaller than the plate, then its a question of is there anything left to eat...
From what I've heard, if it falls into that "smaller than a pie plate" category AND you feel the need to shoot it, you probably wouldn't want to eat it.
A couple of thoughts: One, when it is used repeatedly, a longer barrel of the same diameter will more likely to suffer from oscillation due to heating, which can affect accuracy as much as the 100 fps loss. The velocity loss would most affect bullets after they went subsonic, when yawing would more likely to occur. So you are talking out at the longer ranges. You could argue that a shorter, high mass bull barrel might be just as effective all around. More heat sink mass, and less overall barrel length to oscillate as it warms up. Raley, Colt, BMS, and 11-B, what do you guys think? Also, unless using iron sights, you don't need the extra barrel length to give you a longer, hence more accurate, sighting plane.
Lizardette wrote: From what I've heard, if it falls into that "smaller than a pie plate" category AND you feel the need to shoot it, you probably wouldn't want to eat it.
Headshot required for eating! I used to squirrel hunt with my 25-06, missed more than I hit and the dog would look at me funny when I hit the body. That occasional headless squirrel was a real source of pride though!
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