Barrel Fluting and observation

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10 years 6 months ago #38638 by JustMe
Thanks for the 260 recommendation,but I already have too many calibers some being the 243, 308, 3006, and 300Mag and I really don't want to add another.

My AR10T is just too heavy for my tastes so I usually resort to my bolt guns for hunting. I can't tolerate inaccurate rifles that shoot a 4 inch group at 100 yds. So I'm looking for a light weight, subMOA, AR that I can shoot from awkward positions without pulling a muscle or dislocating a shoulder. I reload and all of my rifles shoot a half MOA or less. My AR10T is shooting about a half MOA with my reloads. I've read the Remington SR25 is the lightest and a subMOA rifle but I didn't want to bias everyones responses by mentioning a particular rifle. I wanted to leave the suggestions wide open.

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10 years 6 months ago #38640 by OleCowboy
If you are talking about the R 25 then it is a top tier gun, available in .243, 7mm-08 Rem and .308.

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10 years 6 months ago #38641 by Siscowet

JustMe wrote: Thanks for the 260 recommendation,but I already have too many calibers some being the 243, 308, 3006, and 300Mag and I really don't want to add another.

My AR10T is just too heavy for my tastes so I usually resort to my bolt guns for hunting. I can't tolerate inaccurate rifles that shoot a 4 inch group at 100 yds. So I'm looking for a light weight, subMOA, AR that I can shoot from awkward positions without pulling a muscle or dislocating a shoulder. I reload and all of my rifles shoot a half MOA or less. My AR10T is shooting about a half MOA with my reloads. I've read the Remington SR25 is the lightest and a subMOA rifle but I didn't want to bias everyones responses by mentioning a particular rifle. I wanted to leave the suggestions wide open.

Two thoughts:
1. Get a carbine upper for your AR10T with a standard weight barrel in 7.62, or get it in 260 remington, although you ruled that out already.
2. Consider a FNSCAR 17 in 7.62. Light and reportedly very accurate. But not a true AR.

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10 years 6 months ago #38642 by JustMe
Thanks. I haven't heard anything bad about the R25. Guess that may be the way to go for a hunting rifle light enough to be accurately fired off hand when no rest is available due to time, etc.

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10 years 6 months ago #38646 by JustMe
I've heard good things about the SCAR 17. Considered a new upper carbine for my AR10T, but was discouraged about its accuracy after talking to the Armalite specialty shop.

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10 years 6 months ago #38648 by faawrenchbndr
Build an Armalite upper with a Noveske barrel........sub MOA shooter with hand loads

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10 years 6 months ago #38656 by JustMe
Would that be cheaper or better than just fluting my AR-10T 20" barrel?

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10 years 6 months ago #38666 by OleCowboy

JustMe wrote: Would that be cheaper or better than just fluting my AR-10T 20" barrel?

I would NOT flute a used bbl. If you want fluting (and I am a major fan of it) flute the bbl when you order the bbl. In fact a quality bbl maker will flute FIRST then rifle the bbl. Fluting removes metal along the length of the bbl doing so both relieves and induces stresses in the bbl and can affect the accuracy of a post new bbl.

Most think that bbl break in ONLY affects the bore. While putting 40 rds down the tube breaks it in the heating and cooling affects the bbl beyond the bore itself.

In the OLD days of racing some of the top engine builders scanned the junk yards for OLD 100,000 mi hi perf engines. I was a racer back in those halcyon days of the 60s. I knew one of the top engine builders around who worked out of Ft Worth. We both campaigned Corvettes and I was talking to him about how he built his engines. He told me find a 100,000 mile as all the block and metal stressors are settled in, the engine will not stretch any more.

You don't want to induce metal removal on a used bbl. The sole exception would be shorting or threading the muzzle.

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10 years 6 months ago #38673 by JustMe
Great info Olecowboy about not trying to flute my present bbl. I would have done that if you hadn't said something. Heat conditioning metal makes sense. Guess that means I need to purchase another rifle or a Noveske upper. I'm leery about building an upper because doesn't the bolt face etc. have to be machined to match the barrel to get accuracy?

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10 years 6 months ago #38674 by OleCowboy

JustMe wrote: Great info Olecowboy about not trying to flute my present bbl. I would have done that if you hadn't said something. Heat conditioning metal makes sense. Guess that means I need to purchase another rifle or a Noveske upper. I'm leery about building an upper because doesn't the bolt face etc. have to be machined to match the barrel to get accuracy?

Yes, kinda sorta and it runs from not that big of a deal to a big deal, lot depends on how smooth do you want this to work, how accurate do you want it to be, in other words quality of fit and finish runs from acceptable to great. to solve this its really easy. pick your upper, pick your bbl and most bbl makers were do the proper fitment for you fi you send it in. In fact some of the very best demand you send it in to insure the accuracy they build for is what you get.

They know poor accuracy will only result in the owner poor mouthing the bbl and upper, blame the tools not the operator so they want you to send it in so it can be properly mated!!!!

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