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Two thoughts:JustMe wrote: Thanks for the 260 recommendation,but I already have too many calibers some being the 243, 308, 3006, and 300Mag and I really don't want to add another.
My AR10T is just too heavy for my tastes so I usually resort to my bolt guns for hunting. I can't tolerate inaccurate rifles that shoot a 4 inch group at 100 yds. So I'm looking for a light weight, subMOA, AR that I can shoot from awkward positions without pulling a muscle or dislocating a shoulder. I reload and all of my rifles shoot a half MOA or less. My AR10T is shooting about a half MOA with my reloads. I've read the Remington SR25 is the lightest and a subMOA rifle but I didn't want to bias everyones responses by mentioning a particular rifle. I wanted to leave the suggestions wide open.
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I would NOT flute a used bbl. If you want fluting (and I am a major fan of it) flute the bbl when you order the bbl. In fact a quality bbl maker will flute FIRST then rifle the bbl. Fluting removes metal along the length of the bbl doing so both relieves and induces stresses in the bbl and can affect the accuracy of a post new bbl.JustMe wrote: Would that be cheaper or better than just fluting my AR-10T 20" barrel?
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Yes, kinda sorta and it runs from not that big of a deal to a big deal, lot depends on how smooth do you want this to work, how accurate do you want it to be, in other words quality of fit and finish runs from acceptable to great. to solve this its really easy. pick your upper, pick your bbl and most bbl makers were do the proper fitment for you fi you send it in. In fact some of the very best demand you send it in to insure the accuracy they build for is what you get.JustMe wrote: Great info Olecowboy about not trying to flute my present bbl. I would have done that if you hadn't said something. Heat conditioning metal makes sense. Guess that means I need to purchase another rifle or a Noveske upper. I'm leery about building an upper because doesn't the bolt face etc. have to be machined to match the barrel to get accuracy?
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