Very interesting! I am wondering though about your comment about cut barrels being softer inside than button rifles barrels. Are you sure on this? If a manufacturer is using the same grade steel (moly or stainelss) how could one be softer than the other? Steel varies from grade to grade, but within a grade, isn't it the same?
Many thanks to MSH for contributing such a detailed and informative post. We are so lucky to have such and experienced forum member who is so generous in sharing his knowledge.
Very through build up there! What caught my attention is the application of the side charge handle. I would love to have that on my T. I have looked all over, and the best I have came up with is trying to adapt a LWRCI to my ArmaLite lower, and I'm not so shure I want to do that.
Very through build up there! What caught my attention is the application of the side charge handle. I would love to have that on my T. I have looked all over, and the best I have came up with is trying to adapt a LWRCI to my ArmaLite lower, and I'm not so shure I want to do that.
I couldn't agree more with all but the ray gun thing. The KGB tried that, and it has its own compromises just like old faithful powder/lead projectiles. Ill stick with tried and true. When someone is shooting at me I don't want to depend on some new idea that when it fails is a new problem. At least if something fails on my rifle its probably something I've seen before, and have trained on how to deal with it.
Remember button rifleing and hammer forged are a type of work hardening metal. Both methods are compressing metal which makes it harder. Shear or cut method is as implied with zero compression and no added hardness. Look in a blacksmith book on hammer forging, heat treat and compression of metal. The machinest hand book is a good referance also.MSH
Had a Mark X 25-06 with a factory hammer forged barrel for a lot of years. Thought that barrel would never wear out.
Who makes a high quality 30 caliber hammer forged barrel?
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