Getting frustrated with the ar10T

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10 years 5 months ago #40263 by 30CalFun
Regarding dies, I now use a Forester small base die. I started this loading for my M1A and have carried to on to the AR10. The AR did not have any jamming problems using a full length die, but I did it just for a precaution. Once I get this die set up, it sizes correctly with just one pass through.

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10 years 5 months ago #40265 by NightForce

30CalFun wrote: Regarding dies, I now use a Forester small base die. I started this loading for my M1A and have carried to on to the AR10. The AR did not have any jamming problems using a full length die, but I did it just for a precaution. Once I get this die set up, it sizes correctly with just one pass through.


Given the recent problems many shooters have apparently encountered, I think this is a wise decision.... :thumbs:

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10 years 3 months ago #41936 by foxhunter
To follow up on this post, once I made sure the small base die was properly adjusted, and I have gone to an rcbs seater die that crimps(wasn't doing that before), I have had no issues.
I am still getting consistent 5 shot 1.5 MOA using Hornady AMAX 165 grain bullets at 100 yds sitting with front of gun resting on a bag. I am good with this. I think I could improve the group with better bullets, but I prefer to practive with hunting rounds, since I don't compete and I don't generally try to shoot past 200yds.
I have had no further jamming at all. That was all due to reloading error, that has been corrected.
I did get to go hog hunting in Tx for the first time with my AR10, and it was 98 degrees and I only saw 2 hogs at the same time over 300 yds as light was fading. I misjudged the distance(thought they were a lot closer than they were and I had loaned my range finder to my son)so I shot under the hog. I will head down there again this winter when it is not so hot and they can't hide in the tall grass
I could have shot all the armadillos I wanted, except the one they came up to sniff my feet. He was a little too close.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Akai

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10 years 3 months ago #41944 by Akai
Thanks for the update! But, ya could have had one of those lunchboxes for supper, beets going hungry :rotfl:

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10 years 3 months ago #41956 by Siscowet
Glad you got those loads straightened out, Foxhunter, bet those groups improve now.

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10 years 3 months ago #41960 by GotGuns
I had a similar problem once. I wasn't bumping the shoulder back far enough. I bump the shoulders back now and measure with a gauge. I also trim all my brass now. I use "World's Finest Trimmer" and if you haven't sized things down enough, your brass will jam in the trimmer.

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10 years 3 months ago #41963 by silverman1
Just because your hand loads give great accuracy in your bolt gun , does not mean they will shoot accurately in your carbine.
You need to try different bullets and powder in your carbine untill you find a load it likes.
I have a dpms LR308 bull barrel, and it likes 4064, and 168 gr match bullets.
I have a carbine, I built up from 2nds parts I bought from 3 different suppliers at Camp Perry.
It likes 4895, and will shoot those surplus 145 gr bullets that will not group in my Garand, 700 Rem.,or DPMS
I get 1.25/ 1.5 @ 100 yds.
But the best I can get out of the 168 match (nosler, seierra, and Hornady)is 2 in @ !00 yds.
If you have a M4 type collapsible stock on your carbine, I had to put 3 nylon screws in the outer front of the stock that slides on the tube, as there was too much wobble to shoot accurately.
So if you want really accurate ammo, work a load up for all 3 rifles/carbines.And clearly mark the boxes,as to which rifles they go to.
I agree about using small base dies.
I bought National Match brass,which was most likely shot out of an M-14/M1A , and could not even get it to size in my .308 dies, it would stop 3/8 of an in. above the rim.
I had a small base die for my 30-06 , ran the brass through that before my .308 dies.
Sounds like you had an oversize case,or neck , or something in the chamber or locking lugs .
I worked on small arms in the army, and we had a bronze punch, that was flat on one side, and tapered.
when we had a round that you could not get seated with the forward assist, it was driven into the gap between the bolt carrier, and the radius in front of the ejection port, and pryed toward the rear.
The bronze did not damage the receiver or the bolt carrier.
If you can find a piece of brass or bronze rod 6 to 8 in long , and belt sand a flat on 1 side you can make one yourself.

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10 years 3 months ago #41967 by sti40edge
You might want to get a case gauge (Evolution gun works) to check them.(believe the EGW allows you to check 5 at a time.) best of luck..

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10 years 3 months ago #41982 by Montana55
Reading through all of the posts I thought I would post my experience....I purchased my AR10 earlier this year, 20" 11.25 twist. First sight-in at my local range I used Federal, 180gr FMJ got on paper, great 3 shot 1-2" groups at 100yds, moved to 200yds and had 3-4" groups. At 300yds consistently had 5" groups. This burned through the 60 rounds I had, so changed to PPU ammo, same 180 gr FMJ...wow, suddenly could not even hit paper at 300. Dropped to 200 and still not on paper. At 100 was 8" high!! Not sure if any of you have had a problem like this. Really makes me wonder about being able to shoot any ammo that I did not zero with. I was really hoping that the AR10 would be my distance rifle that I could use any ammo of the same bullet type and be able to pop a watermelon. Starting to wonder if I made a bad choice with the AR10 instead of staying with my .223 AR's.

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10 years 3 months ago #41987 by jtallen83
When it comes to factory ammo I have to re-zero for every load. I've been amazed how much difference there is, even with the same 175 SMK used it can be several inches difference at 100 yards. I have had good luck keeping the zero with NATO stamped M80 ball ammo, even cheap pakistani stuff without the official NATO stamp stays real close with the FN and Radway green I have stashed.

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