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What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?

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11 years 5 months ago #25391 by 13fcolt
Replied by 13fcolt on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?
go through the ar10t amazon link and drop these in the search box.

Otis Technology 932 Brass Scraper Tool Set
Bore snake
Tipton carbon cleaning rod

I've bee using one for ages, has bits to detail clean a BCG plus it's universal and comes in handy with any firearm.

I think bore snakes are a must. Simple, compact, one piece field cleaning. But you still need a cleaning rod because a bore snake just wont cut cooper. I love tipton carbon rods. No coating to chip or peel like with dewey or boretech.
Combined with a Tipton plated jag and a good foaming cooper solvent and you are good to go.

I have a JP bore guide for my AR10, and I almost never use it. Bore guides are a great idea for use in a bolt action, to keep the action from getting boregunk pulled into it. Since the AR upper is off the weapon when I clean, its just not needed. I may just put it up for sale.
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11 years 5 months ago #25395 by Lizardette
Replied by Lizardette on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?
In terms of things to have with you while shooting, this is what I like to be able to have on hand:

I try to keep a spare firing pin, extractor, and firing pin retaining pin handy.

A broken case extractor isn't usually necessary when shooting most commercial or military ammunition of recent manufacture, or reloads using relatively new cases. It can really save the day if you ever do have a head separation though.

One that not many people think of is a flat blade screw driver. If your bolt ever gets stuck in battery and you can't pull hard enough on the charging handle, a flat bladed screw driver (something solid, not a bit driver) can save you a lot of heartache.

I don't know specifically about the Armalite AR10, but the AR15 bolt carrier was built with a slanted cut at the front, which is visible through the ejection port. It was put there specifically so that a flat bladed screwdriver could be wedged in and used as a lever to retract the carrier enough to let you use the charging handle effectively.

Oh. Be sure to carry any allen or torx wrenches (or bits) that fit your scope mount/rings. Despite the best care, sometimes they come loose under recoil. A loose ring on a scope mount can really ruin your day and cause you to waste a lot of ammunition while you make scope adjustments that appear to do nothing.

Same goes for bits or wrenches that fit the screws that hold the windage and elevation knobs onto the turrets of your scope. You'd think they'd be properly installed and tightened at the factory, but I've seen them come loose on a number of different scopes.

If you have iron sights that require tools to adjust, have those available too. Usually it's only the front that there's a tool required for. You can use the tip of a bullet, usually, but it's not as easy as using the tool designed for the job. Besides, the tools are usually pretty cheap and don't take up much room.

Oil. Oh my God is it ever a good idea to have oil handy at the range. Same with a clean cloth or patches.


As for stuff that's good to have at home:

Pin punches and a copper or brass hammer, as well as a bench block if you ever want/need to remove the fire controls.

A torque wrench can be really useful when installing scope mounts/rings, but isn't strictly necessary. Torque specifications for most screws that small are in inch-pounds. If you're going to install a barrel or a muzzle device, you'll need one that reads foot-pounds.

I find that having a set of picks is useful for removing carbon build up, but there are more specialized carbon scraper type tools. The Leatherman MUT has a carbon scraper on it. Copper brushes (I'd never use steel) can work as well, but don't give you the same amount of control or precision, and can't apply the same amount of force as a pick.

Also, a stupid little pink mini mag-lite has made my life so much easier. When you're inspecting parts, having enough light is important and you can't always count on it outdoors, or inside. A small magnifying glass can help greatly too.
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11 years 5 months ago - 11 years 5 months ago #25398 by jtallen83
Replied by jtallen83 on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?

SOC wrote: I prefer a Boresnake to a cleaning rod system.

Fast, effective, easy to keep with you.

:I-agree:
I love my Otis kit, everything I need in a neat little pouch. I hardly touch a rod anymore, it does fine on the copper for me.
Last edit: 11 years 5 months ago by jtallen83.
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11 years 5 months ago #25401 by SOC
Replied by SOC on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?

jtallen83 wrote:

SOC wrote: I prefer a Boresnake to a cleaning rod system.

Fast, effective, easy to keep with you.

:I-agree:
I love my Otis kit, everything I need in a neat little pouch. I hardly touch a rod anymore, it does fine on the copper for me.

A wooden or fiberglass dowel will remove stuck brass if your extractor rips off the rim.
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11 years 5 months ago #25402 by jtallen83
Replied by jtallen83 on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?
I think I paid $2.99 for my separated case remover, fits right in the kit.
I don't see needing it but if I do I'm sure I'll have left the kit at home that day.........

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11 years 5 months ago #25405 by SOC
Replied by SOC on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?
I have never needed a separated case remover.

I use good quality ammo.

However I know a few tricks to removing a separated case with an improvised tool.
A machine screw of the right size being the easiest.

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11 years 5 months ago #25428 by Lizardette
Replied by Lizardette on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?
I have had to use one before, several times.

Actually, having had to use it is the reason we no longer use Hornady Match brass. Two or three loadings in a semi-auto and the case heads separate with alarming regularity.

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11 years 5 months ago #25433 by jtallen83
Replied by jtallen83 on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?

Lizardette wrote: I have had to use one before, several times.

Actually, having had to use it is the reason we no longer use Hornady Match brass. Two or three loadings in a semi-auto and the case heads separate with alarming regularity.


After looking close at my once fired brass all the commercial stuff shows some deformation of the rim, makes me nervous about the first re-load on them. I doubt I use any of it for a third bang.
Any idea if lake City brass will hold up better? My FN and radway both hold up well but the primer issues have deterred me from working up loads with it.

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11 years 5 months ago #25450 by SOC
Replied by SOC on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?

jtallen83 wrote:

Lizardette wrote: I have had to use one before, several times.

Actually, having had to use it is the reason we no longer use Hornady Match brass. Two or three loadings in a semi-auto and the case heads separate with alarming regularity.


After looking close at my once fired brass all the commercial stuff shows some deformation of the rim, makes me nervous about the first re-load on them. I doubt I use any of it for a third bang.
Any idea if lake City brass will hold up better? My FN and radway both hold up well but the primer issues have deterred me from working up loads with it.

Lake City is the best brass you can get.

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11 years 5 months ago #25495 by Lizardette
Replied by Lizardette on topic What maintenance bits a tools should I get..?
Correction: Lake City MATCH brass is the best you can get. ;)

Seriously, we've got some of that stuff that's been reloaded 8 times and hasn't failed. Federal holds up nicely as well.

The rim, unless it's so dented up that you can't get it into the case holder, shouldn't matter much. What you can do though is run a feeler of some kind (like a slightly curved pick) into the case. What you're looking for is a low spot right ahead of the web of the case. Just put the point against the wall at the bottom of the case and pull it slowly upward. If it catches or hesitates, then you might be looking at a case that will separate the next time it's used.

By the way, what primer issues are you having?
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