1000yrds

More
12 years 2 months ago #12484 by ar-10supersass
1000yrds was created by ar-10supersass
Has any one shot the AR-10 super sass 1000 yards or beyond on that?If you have can you please give me some ideas on what scope and load that you used.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12705 by mlotziii
Replied by mlotziii on topic 1000yrds
I would love to hear about this also. Farthest shot I've taken was 400 yards with factory ammo

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12706 by Hutchcat
Replied by Hutchcat on topic 1000yrds
I used an AR10-T 308 with Hornady 168 HPBT moly shot about 36" group in the wind to qualify. the 24" BBL.
also have 400 rounds of Black Hills Moly 168 HPBT shoots the same.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12707 by Hutchcat
Replied by Hutchcat on topic 1000yrds
Sorry got in a hurry, used a Burris XTR 3.5X12X50MM 30MM tube worked great.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12709 by Akai
Replied by Akai on topic 1000yrds
Ummm maybe with a little higher power scope in 24x range and try some 140-150gr BTHP Haven't had much luck with the molly coat though didn't shoot very much of it, think your only suppose to use it and only it for barrel break in( with the bullets)! Not meaning barrel break in, but seasoning of the barrel, better stop now because this doesn't make much sense :silly: zfk55 may be of more help in this area on reloading! Check it out! Think you should be able to cut those groups in 1/2 B)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12716 by 13fcolt
Replied by 13fcolt on topic 1000yrds
High magnification is not required for going the distance. In fact, It can become a hindrance. magnifying errors such as breathing, heart beat, natural human twitchyness. It's not that these errors won't be there at lower magnification, It's that they are more exaggerated at higher magnification and cause the shooter to wear themselves out chasing the cross hairs, causing tenseness, exhaustion, and wrecking good form. I've caught myself doing it varminting at 25x with a death grip on the rifle trying to force it to be still, watching it bounce in tune with my pulse, but only causing more movement and shooting like shit. Magnification also magnifies mirage. many times mirage will have a target all wiblly woblly at 20+x but be nearly unperceptible at 10x. For me it has made a difference between 7 out of 10 in a 30" spread and 10 out of 10 in 22".
depending on conditions, I stay 10x-14x 95% of the time.

A quality scope should have good clear glass, accurate & repeatable adjustments with precise tracking. leupold, & nightforce, are the ones I have first hand with, and have been happy. I think for what you get, NF is the best bang for the buck.

For long range, I highly recommend getting turret adjustments that match the reticule pattern. If you go with MIL dots, get MIL turrets. If you get MOA on one, get MOA on the other. If you do not, you will then have to do conversion math to make corrections. For example, It is MUCH easier to simply see that you need 1.5mils adjustment and crank in 1.5mils.

First Focal Plane. simply put, whatever magnification you have dialed in, you can use your dots, bars, or hash marks. second focal plane restricts you to one magnification that the reticule markings subtend. any other setting and those mil dots are just dots.

Next feature that is really awesome, is zero stop. It does not sound like much but it is one of those things that makes life easier. Shooting long range means you will be adjusting from your 100m zero to whatever distance and conditions to make the shot. being able to go back quickly, without having to count down 156 clicks to go back to a known good zero and verify POI, making minor corrections as needed is a life saver.

Pass on illuminated reticules, nearly every scope I have, came with it and It gets used so infrequently that the original batteries they shipped with died from shelf life, not use.

ammo is really a whole 'nuther topic. just about everyone here is steadily seeking that perfect load. unfortunately I have not found it in a factory ammo. I'd recommend trying a box of everything and see what works best for you. granted, a good group at 100 does not mean good at 1000 but it gives you a place to start. what you will be looking for is a bullet with a high ballistic coefficient, and velocity above 1100fps @ 1000yds. While there are a lot of things going on with getting a bullet out there, dropping through transonic speeds is what hoses an otherwise good shot. when the bullet slows down and it's shock wave catches up to it, it can be enough upset to throw the bullet pretty far off its mark. some will even group very well at 700-800 only to keyhole at 1000 because of this.

The long range bullet that is pretty much the standard all others are compared to is the 175grm sierra match king. I have a pet load with this that does well in my sass. I've never had any luck with 168's. for some reason I can shoot 155grn with better BC. It makes no sense to me how they can make light bullets and heavy bullets with nearly the same BC, but not the 168. It lacks both the BC and velocity to make it worth much.
anyway, if you are bitten by the long range bug, rolling your own loads tailored to your weapon will be the biggest step toward getting there.

Other things you will find useful is a decent spotting scope. This is one of those things I keep going cheap on and I regret it. A chronograph is indispensable if you reload, and really useful if you don't. most factory ammo is loaded around a 24" barrel and rarely shoots as fast as claimed. other things such as temp, humidity, density altitude, will all play a part in it, and a chrony will allow you to adjust a ballistic table accordingly. Wind flags, right now is a good time to hit up wally world and grab a few of the longest, cheapest arrows, field tips, and construction tape. just stick them in the ground and read the wind speed and direction.

having said all of that, the single most difficult thing to do with this long range business, is finding a place to shoot that far. good luck!
The following user(s) said Thank You: mlotziii

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12723 by LebbenB
Replied by LebbenB on topic 1000yrds

High magnification is not required for going the distance. In fact, It can become a hindrance. magnifying errors such as breathing, heart beat, natural human twitchyness. It's not that these errors won't be there at lower magnification, It's that they are more exaggerated at higher magnification...

THIS! One of our instructors at Sniper School once said that a higher mag scope doesn't make you shoot better, it simply lets you SEE better.

First Focal Plane. simply put, whatever magnification you have dialed in, you can use your dots, bars, or hash marks. second focal plane restricts you to one magnification that the reticule markings subtend. any other setting and those mil dots are just dots.

I will disagree slightly here. A SFF reticle can be used effectively at different magnifications by doing a little math.

A lot of good info in your post, brother...Preach on!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12731 by 13fcolt
Replied by 13fcolt on topic 1000yrds
Do you by any chance know the math for using second focal plane? I think it would be pretty handy to have a card with corrections for each power setting but I just assumed that such a thing would be complex and/or imprecise.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12732 by JustMe
Replied by JustMe on topic 1000yrds
13fcolt,

I agree with you. I have used both 1st focal plane and 2nd focal plane scopes for hunting/shooting long distances. I prefer the 1st focal plane scopes (FPS) due to the speed of adjusting hold over for distant shots since the scales in 1st FP multiple reticle scopes will be accurate for all the magnifications of the scope. The 2nd FPSs require you to take your eye out of the scope to set the proper magnification for the multiple crosshair lines to be accurate. For example, my Leupold 6.5-20x Varmint Reticle scope requires it to be set at 14x for the scale to read correctly, since the multiple reticles are wrong at any of the other magnification level between 6.5x and 20x. The lines are only accurate at 14x. Whereas, my Shepherd 2.5-10x 1st FPS crosshairs are accurate at all magnifications from 2.5x to 10x. Consequently, with the Shepherd, I can keep my eye in the scope while zooming and still use the appropriate crosshair line to hold over the target and make a quick shot.

If you plan to use the turret to dial in the range for every shot then it doesn't matter whether you use a 1st or 2nd FPS since you'll only be using one crosshair, the top one. Also, if you plan to use the turret to set distance, you don't need a multiple reticle scope since you'll only be using the top line in your reticle. The same 1st or 2nd FPS argument also applies to MilDot ranging scopes. You can only range accurately using the space between the MilDots in a 1st FPS scope at all magnifications. 2nd FPSs can only be milled accurately at one magnification making for a lot of extra adjusting of the scope for rapid distance measuring/shooting.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
12 years 1 month ago #12733 by JustMe
Replied by JustMe on topic 1000yrds

13fcolt wrote: Do you by any chance know the math for using second focal plane? I think it would be pretty handy to have a card with corrections for each power setting but I just assumed that such a thing would be complex and/or imprecise.


Why bother?? As you zoom, the relative space between the multiple crosshairs will be changing infinitely relative to the size of your target/game. I think it would be a waste of your time to try to use a chart while hunting to look up the constantly changing holdover values especially if the game is changing distance and you are waiting for it to stop so you can take the shot. In a hunting scenario, there are too many things changing too fast to be looking things up in a chart. What are you going to do? Look at your scope magnification, then at your chart to do the conversion, and then finally use Kentucky windage to hold over the game before you shoot? Having to use Kentucky windage defeats the purpose of multiple reticle crosshairs since none of the crosshairs can be used to hold right on the game. How long do you think the game is going to stand there while you do all your calculations? You'd be better served (faster) to just turn your 2nd focal plane scope to the one power setting that's accurate and use that magnification to hold over and make your shot - to state it another way, just don't zoom for the shot, use one power setting.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.