Lake City brass

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11 years 3 months ago #27801 by super8mm
Lake City brass was created by super8mm
Lake City brass

When looking for .308 once fired brass a lot of folk seem to like Lake City brass, it take it that they are stamped LC date?

I found some Lake City 2009 HS – Boxer Primed all yellow with complimentary tumble polish. They are asking $145.00 for 500+, from another site I can get 500 mixed for $109.

Is Lake City worth the extra money?

Thanks

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11 years 3 months ago #27808 by Scorobe2916
Replied by Scorobe2916 on topic Lake City brass
Well if they're all the same head stamp that would mean they're going to be very consistent in weight, to within 3 grs which is what I have personally noticed. If you were to buy the bulk once fired of different head stamps you might come up with 100-200 of one weight and 100-200 of a different weight and then another 50-100 that are all over the place as far as weight. The weight relates to wall thickness, heavy brass less case volume. And some of these differences can be as much as 15 grr from one head stamp to another. If your going for a higher level of accuracy definitely get the brass w/same head stamp it will make it a lot easier and price doesn't seam that extreme for 500 pieces, Lapua brass is 75$ for 100 pieces. Hope this helps.

I myself might take the odd ball brass out of the bulk brass and use it for plinking or hunting where I don't really care about losing brass.
Good luck, consistency = accuracy

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11 years 3 months ago #27809 by LebbenB
Replied by LebbenB on topic Lake City brass
As Scorobe stated, military brass is a bit thicker. When using it, back off your charge weight about .1 gr or so to prevent compressed charges. On the upside, military brass tends to last longer because of the thicker case walls.

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11 years 3 months ago #27811 by Scorobe2916
Replied by Scorobe2916 on topic Lake City brass
LebbenB is right on you should definitely back your charge off a bit, but I think what you would notice if you shot Rem brass vs LC you'll actually get more speed. The more volume a case has the more powder you have to put in it. The LC brass may shoot up to 100fps faster than Rem brass w/same charge. I've noticed the LC brass is even more heavy than the Lapua brass I shoot through my f-class 308, good sturdy stuff. Just make sure that when you are resizing it you check headspace cause if any of it has been shot through any machine gun you might need to bump the shoulders twice, to get proper dimensions. And just to answer the question before its asked, yes a second time through your FL die will resize it more, especially if it's grossly oversized.

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11 years 3 months ago #27822 by LebbenB
Replied by LebbenB on topic Lake City brass

...if any of it has been shot through any machine gun...


I try to avoid MG-fired brass, both 5.56 and 7.62, if at all possible. Extraction/ejection is so violent with the 240/M60 and (especially) the 249, that you really have to examine the cases for stress marks and chewed up case rims.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Scorobe2916

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11 years 3 months ago #27833 by super8mm
Replied by super8mm on topic Lake City brass
Thanks guys, I will ask if it has been fired through a 60 or others.

My press is a Dillon and I plan on doing the first stage to all the brass before loading anything so I can check the primer pockets and trim cases in need to

I am ordering carbide full sizing die.

I may be over cautious, about things. I had a nipple pull out of a muzzle loader once. Thing is I normally shoot l/h but shoulder got sore so I switched to r/h first round the nipple pulled th e the threads and all I got was a face full of powder burns. After I cleaned my britchesi stuck a pencil in the hole where the nipple was and shouldered it l/h, the pencil was touching me between the eyes

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11 years 3 months ago #27835 by brass_whore
Replied by brass_whore on topic Lake City brass
The milsurp brass that I have been getting has been run through MG (M60) and the first sizing has to be with a small base die to get the case back to tolerance. Out of 1000 that I purchased, I had to discard 15 that were damaged (either were shot in a weapon that had a worn chamber, or from the extraction). I got mine for $150 per 1000 (dirty with primer intact). Tumbling is not bad, but removing the crimp can be a chore. One of these days I will purchase the Dillon crimp removing tool.....

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