OK, not so much fun but a good learning experience.
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I found my Hornady seating/crimping die to be very sensitive. I went from seeing no apparent crimp to this bulged shoulder with just a 1/16 turn of the die!
I think I'll try going with just neck tension and see if that will work.
Does anyone here have experience with the Redding taper crimp die or any other style of taper crimp die?
That is why I won't use the bullet seating die for a crimp as well...
Don't know about the redding die...I use the LEE Factory Crimp die...never had an issue....
BMS
The Lee FCD is the way to go if you must crimp. It does an amazing job and is dirt cheap. I no longer crimp though. I use Hornady Match grade die set for .308 and adjusted the expander diameter to get me .305" inside neck diameter for a .003 grip on the bullet. I have no bullet movement issues with my AR-10. Adjustment was done with an electric drill and wet/dry paper.
Thanks, that seems to be the preferred method for any rounds meant for long range. Think I'll shrink my expander some for the next batch, it reads .307 now but knowing your getting away with .305 tells me I have some room for more neck tension. Have you seen any issues shaving the jacket on seating? Every bullet I'm working with is a boat tail so this should help.
No shaving issues. I lightly chamfer the inside edge. Ya get about .0005 - .001" of spring back on the necks, so a .305 button gives me about a .304 neck. If you neck anneal, then very little spring back, after 4 firings, about .001 of spring back. All my .308s are boat tails, but I do the same thing with my .223s and use flat bases with no problems.
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