I went to Wyoming last June, Prairie dog hunting, and put 1000 rds.+ through my LR308.
When I got home, I cleaned the barrel, and my WITT muzzle break with foaming copper remover.
I used a M16 toothbrush, to scrub the ports in the break.
I have not had the opportunity to shoot it since my return from the hunt.
A friend asked to see it, so I went and got the hard case it is stored in,and when I opened it, the ports in the break are green colored, and starting to grow fuzzy copper colored growths around it.
Sort of like a battery post gets.
I tried to clean this off, and no luck.
By the way , it is a stainless barrel & break.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to clean it,short of bead blasting it?
Thanks
I would try to clean it with the same stuff that caused the corrosion. See if that works.
Also, You might try a past of baking soda and water, at least that would neutralize the corrosive affects of whatever is going on with it.
I had a similar experience with black powder solvent, I just cleaned the components of the pistol with the same bore solvent, then, washed that off with some solvent.
The parts stores has "Brake and Parts Cleaner", that comes in an aerosol can, That stuff is mighty good for doing the final cleaning on My firearms components. It also removes any residue of any cleaning solvents. Do not get the stuff on plastic lenses though, some lenses may not take the action of the solvent too good.
See how that works, please reply back with the results.
I am sure that there is someone in here that has had a problem such as this.
Sounds like a copper residue was left after cleaning. Hoppes should do it, if not then a tougher Copper eliminator like one from BoreTech then scrub real good with your favorite CLP to remove any leftover residue.
Thank you JT.
I did learn one lesson.
Never leave firearms parts in any kind of a solvent, over night, thinking that, if some is good, more will be better. I had a heck of a mess, cleaning the components of that black powder resolver, to get the greenish corrosion all removed.
Silverman, I hope that Your parts comes out, looking as nice as when new.
I have said this time and time again,,,,Try the Mil Comm Products...both very efficient and weapon Friendly.... is all I can say,,, :pinch: :whistle: :cowboy:
SASS
I've heard great reviews on this stuff and from a very reputable company.
They have or had an 18mo. backlog on 1911 work :banghead:
Mine will be on order when I get that elusive dealer pricing :whistle:
I've heard great reviews on this stuff and from a very reputable company.
They have or had an 18mo. backlog on 1911 work :banghead:
Mine will be on order when I get that elusive dealer pricing :whistle:
I bet My five gallon bucket of carburetor cleaner`d work good too, maybe even too good. :busted: Well, to be honest with Yuhalls, I have tried it, works quite well too, did`nt seem to remove any bluing from the pistol that I did douse in it, a very, very crusty older spaghetti cap and ball resolver.
OH YEAH, AKAI.
I think that with the dunk stuff that You have shown there, If a suitable diameter and length of PVC pipe, with one end glued/capped and the other end with a screw in cap and adapter that, whole actions and barrels of rifles could be dunked then.
You have a carbon/smoke residue build up, not uncommon at all and the best products I have come across to clean your components is a good quality carbon cleaner. You can get this at most any auto store and or you can stop off down at your local BBQ supply store and get some BBQ grill cleaner.
Carb cleaner should also work if the carbon is not too built up. I have also used GUNK for engine cleaning and had excellent results on carbon build up.
If push comes to shove, take a propane torch, heat it up HOT and spray it with some water and just watch the flakes of carbon come off, works best on components that does not have any coating on it.
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