Use a KNOWN and reputable smith or machinist, would suck to that a local idiot trash a barrel
I second. Clint's heavy buffers are so well machined they are almost too pretty to put inside the rifle.
I've seen several barrels that went to adco. They take the extra steps to insure concentricity & squareness with the bore for suppressor use.
You can't go wrong either way, so it's down to who has the best turnaround time.
Yeah, probably a bad idea to try it yourself with just a threading die.
There was a good example of this on TV last year I think. It was on Sons of Guns. The owner of the gun shop decided to try to thread the muzzle of a new custom ordered Saiga 12 barrel using just a threading die.
In his own words: "I couldn't have made that (threading) more crooked if I'd tried."
They cut the bad threading off of the barrel and did it again, using a guide of some kind. I believe it fit into the bore. It served to make sure that everything was kept concentric.
Besides, checking for proper clearance between the path of the bullet and the inside of a muzzle break/flash hider (that's closed on the end) can be a real :censored: if you don't have a precision ground alignment gauge.
We have one originally designed for use in the National Match M14, but it works in any .30 caliber (across the lands) bore. It's ground to like .30000" for the portion that enters the bore and steps up to .329" where it passes through the flash hider.
Most do not have Smiths of that caliber local for them.
Gotta use some common sense with this, if the Snmith is not a VERY well known, they do not get my business. Shipping is a hell of a lot cheaper than lawsuits and barrel replacement costs.
I've threaded a lot of barrels myself before, and its really not that hard. I'd recommend just getting a bar of the size and same type of steel as your barrel, then just practice threading it by yourself and cut off the threaded pieces and practice on the whole bar.
But if "you don't got time for dat" just send it in
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