FP-10

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11 years 5 months ago - 11 years 5 months ago #24875 by SOC
FP-10 was created by SOC
I use to use CLP, I found it didn't hang around as long and would turn into gummy sludge after a while. I know teflon was used in early formulations and most of my CLP I had was what I had been issued in the Army. I never noticed the issue with reduced accuracy and flyers associated with lubes containing teflon but I didn't do much precision shooting at that time either.

So eventually I ran out of my stock of CLP and decided to order FP-10 based on reviews calling it at least the equal of if not superior than CLP. It was also a couple bucks cheaper than gallon sized CLP.

Initially I gave a bottle of FP-10 to my Father who uses CLP to lube ammunition loading equipment (Ammo load, Camdex, Waterbury Farrel etc loading machines.) for a major ammunition manufacturer.

He is the chief engineer and calibrates, cleans, rebuilds as well as operates this equipment.

I figured he would know best how a different lube preforms.

First I understand this is a low temp application and temp has to be considered for a firearm lube so for all intents the evaluation is incomplete tell I have a few thousand rounds through some of my firearms.

So for "casual" use as a general lube and preservative here is how FP-10 stacks against CLP.



1. The FP-10 keeps the equipment lubed longer.

2. CLP turns into a gummy sludge mixed with particulates as it drys requiring tear down and cleaning it out of the equipment regularly. FP-10 does not.

3. FP-10 can be re-applied without buildup or flushing more sludge into hard to clean parts of equipment.

4. FP-10 lacks the chemical/petroleum smell of CLP and has a light smell similar to of all things... Cinnamon toast.


Now for the shooting I have done my initial observations follow.

1. FP-10 will creep (has more capillarity than CLP)

In my switching to FP-10 I am use to the liberal application of CLP, I notice I have to keep wiping down my firearms after I lube with FP-10 as it leaks out trigger pin holes, gaps between slides and frames and every nook and cranny. Not drips mind you but a creeping and slowly spreading moist spot.

IMHO this is good as I know it is getting in all the right places without me having to apply it directly.

I also prefer a slightly wet sheen (as apposed to bone dry) on the outside of all my firearms after I clean and oil them. This is most noticed with anodizing witch looks grey when bone dry but is black (not oily) after I lube.

2. FP-10 does not seem to burn off the bolt and carrier as fast as CLP.

I often notice the face of the bolt will still have FP-10 on it after a range session where CLP would be completely gone.

3. FP-10 will flush a weapon clean with less lube applied than with CLP.

CLP turns into a gummy sludgy mess when mixed with carbon fouling and it tends to stick when you go to flush it out. FP-10 stays liquid and the particulates stay in suspension. This is especially noticeable on full auto firearms when they become sluggish due to buildup. Flushing with CLP will postpone failure where flushing with FP-10 seams to clear out most of the problem often doubling the functional time over CLP and repeated flushing stays effective where CLP eventually just wont work.

4. FP-10 makes a good cleaning agent.

FP-10 is not Gun Scrubber or *shudder* Break Cleaner. FP-10 will not be replacing my Simple Green either. However it is a better cleaning agent than CLP as it has never had teflon in its formulation so there is no doubt that it is bore safe.

I also notice less caked and baked on carbon fouling and what fouling there is is easier to clean off. I now use tooth brushes where brass brushes used to be necessary.

Pending,

I am still testing to see how FP-10 does for long term wear, extreme hot and cold weather, wet, sandy, dry and infrequent cleaning conditions. (I live in Montana so I'll have everything from 100+ to -20 below testable.)

If anyone has ideas for tests I can do or applications (Firearm or not) I'll be glad to try what I can.
Last edit: 11 years 5 months ago by SOC.
The following user(s) said Thank You: OleCowboy, Siscowet

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11 years 5 months ago #24877 by Siscowet
Replied by Siscowet on topic FP-10
Thanks that is good info. I switched to TW25 a while back and am happy with it though it is pricey. May have to try FP-10 next time.

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11 years 5 months ago #24879 by SOC
Replied by SOC on topic FP-10

Siscowet wrote: Thanks that is good info. I switched to TW25 a while back and am happy with it though it is pricey. May have to try FP-10 next time.


I wouldn't expect an oil to replace a grease. They both will do some jobs the other won't. In general grease works best on sliding surfaces (Slide and frame rails, bolt carrier, etc) an oil works great on rotating surfaces and often as a cleaning agent.

You will also use less grease than you would an oil.

Like using bar soap on your hair and shampoo on your hands they will both get you clean but not be best for how you use them.

A reason I like FP-10 is in a pinch I can use it more ways than say Simple Green, or TW25 by themselves.

FYI I need to get grease as I currently don't have any.

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11 years 5 months ago - 11 years 5 months ago #24892 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic FP-10
FP10 works very well.........love the smell
Last edit: 11 years 5 months ago by faawrenchbndr.

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11 years 5 months ago #24895 by jtallen83
Replied by jtallen83 on topic FP-10
I've liked the SLIP products I've used, both lube and carbon killer.

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11 years 5 months ago #24897 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic FP-10
Never used the Carbon Killer.......the EWL works very well though

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11 years 5 months ago #24902 by jtallen83
Replied by jtallen83 on topic FP-10
I can't say I've given the carbon killer anything real fouled, I just don't let stuff get very dirty, can't afford or find the ammo to do it with these days! My Brother-in-law has a few weapons he hasn't cleaned for a decade or two so someday I'll try a comparison with no 9 and report back.

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11 years 5 months ago #24909 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic FP-10
When mine get really bad, or I just want all the carbon off the bolt, I soak the bcg overnight in Motorcraft "carburetor cleaner". You have to get it at the parts counter at a dealership, it is not the "add to your fuel tank" stuff, comes in a metal can. I have been reusing the same can for a few years. GM makes it as well, for those that support Government Motors!

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11 years 5 months ago #24935 by SOC
Replied by SOC on topic FP-10

faawrenchbndr wrote: When mine get really bad, or I just want all the carbon off the bolt, I soak the bcg overnight in Motorcraft "carburetor cleaner". You have to get it at the parts counter at a dealership, it is not the "add to your fuel tank" stuff, comes in a metal can. I have been reusing the same can for a few years. GM makes it as well, for those that support Government Motors!


Carb and Break cleaners both leave a residue and are often chlorinated.

Gunscrubber does the same thing with no residue and isn't much more expensive.

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11 years 5 months ago #24939 by faawrenchbndr
Replied by faawrenchbndr on topic FP-10

SOC wrote:

faawrenchbndr wrote: When mine get really bad, or I just want all the carbon off the bolt, I soak the bcg overnight in Motorcraft "carburetor cleaner". You have to get it at the parts counter at a dealership, it is not the "add to your fuel tank" stuff, comes in a metal can. I have been reusing the same can for a few years. GM makes it as well, for those that support Government Motors!


Carb and Break cleaners both leave a residue and are often chlorinated.

Gunscrubber does the same thing with no residue and isn't much more expensive.



FAIL


Why I recommended is not your average typical carb cleaner. No it's not chlorinated, because it's a liquid, not an aerosol as you mistakenly assumed! I do rinse with isopropyl alcohol, then lube afterwards.

GunScrubber is over priced garbage............I have been using the same can of FoMoCo carb cleaner going on three years, would guess I have cleaned 500 bolts with this one $6.95 can.

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