Special break-in considerations?

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14 years 6 months ago #4300 by LoneWolfUSMC
You do realize that Larry at Midway sells cleaning supplies/equipment and of course barrels....right?

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14 years 6 months ago #4301 by BUILDING MY SASS
Yep, I do alot of business with midway...ammo and such and my reloading stuff...so Yep...I know....I am just stating a point...
but as you said...it is all up to the individual as to how they do it and why and what they believe...and also what the owner's manual says....just my nickles worth....not arguing the point at hand...
BMS

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14 years 6 months ago #4306 by Louisiana Shooter
Many of the folks who know a lot more about metalurgy and ballistics tell me that there is some validity about proper break in procedures. Some believe it is more about having several of the barrels heating/cooling cycles take place in a rythmic way. Others say that it is about smoothing out microscopic burrs and such in the bore in an even way.

In any event, I do believe that rifle cleaing is over done. I think part or the origins of thst date back to blackpowder days when rifle functioning and accuracy deteriorated very quickly when shooting and corrosive elements were left in the bore from a single shot. Traditional habits have been reinforced by the need to clean equipment often in the extremely harsh environments that we keep deploying our soldiers to.

Most of my guns only get cleaned every 500-1000 shots once they are broken in, when they have gotten wet, before I go hunting, or when they come out of extended storage.

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14 years 6 months ago #4309 by LoneWolfUSMC
My argument has never really been about "break in". It's been about a special cleaning and firing routine for "break in".

I don't believe you are accomplishing anything by stripping the barrel bare between your first 20-30 shots versus just firing 20-30 shots.

Several top level smiths and manufacturers seem to agree.

However it's your rifle. Do what makes you happy. In all likelihood it's not going to make a hill of beans difference as long as you are exrecising proper cleaning techniques.

Just remember, that black stuff on the patch after the blue comes out......it's barrel steel.

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14 years 6 months ago #4311 by BUILDING MY SASS
OK, this one is probably going to get me some "hate mail" :angry: but oh well.....LOL :laugh:
I had someone tell me once that breaking in a barrel was "kinda like" breaking in a cast iron frying pan.. :whistle: ..you don't want to over clean it but you do want to get it nice and seasoned.. :dry: ..if that makes any sense to anyone out there.... :huh:
BMS

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14 years 6 months ago #4312 by LoneWolfUSMC
That is actually a pretty good analogy.

It is especially true with .22's

It seems to be pretty consistent with factory CM barrels. They shoot best after some "fouling" shots.

Lapped custom barrels seem to shoot well without many fouling shots but they will almost always print different from cold/clean shot to cold/fouled-warm/fouled.

I say "almost" because always/never is a bad habit to get into lest you like being proven wrong.

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14 years 6 months ago #4315 by BUILDING MY SASS
Question, do you run a bit of oil on a patch after you clean your barrel...????
I have learned that it works much the same way as with the frying pan comparison....
but I have to say that I have know a few that tried to break in a barrel and screwed it up...to a point....
On my M-15 that I recently got....I use the manual's instructions for the most part....5 to 10 rounds clean, then I oil, another 10 rounds clean, oil,,,,,I did this shooting Hornady FMJ..55 gr for a 100 rounds, it of course is the heavy 16" barrel and is for the most part for CQB...so long range accuracy is not a must...but I did pull down some close shots with it at 100 yard,,,but comparing the M-15 to the AR-10 is like comparing a moped to a Harley...just not in the same category....As someone else said to me, break it in like you are intending to use it....I guess the same might be true for firearms...
BMS

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14 years 6 months ago #4317 by Louisiana Shooter
I run an oiled patch through after cleaning and a dry patch through before shooting. For guns that I keep handy for defensive purposes, the dry patch comes right after the oiled patch,

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14 years 6 months ago #4318 by LoneWolfUSMC
It all depends on the weapon type and barrel material.

For fighting carbines and pistols I will frequently run a oiled patch, then a couple dry. This puts a little corrosion resistance in the pores of the metal.

For Chrome Lined barrels I don't really worry about it.

For precision rifles, no oiled patch. I use Hoppes #9 to clean, so it's not as aggressive as some cleaners. If I was using an ammonia based cleaner like Butch's then I would run a patch of CLP to make sure there is no ammonia residue.

When I fire I want the bore dry. If you want to see why, take a piece of clean steel. Wipe some of your chosen gun oil on it, then light it on fire, or if it won't light, hit it with a torch quickly. See what kind of nasty residue you get after exposing that oil to the kind of heat you get in the bore of a high power rifle.

When it's all said and done, don't forget that barrels are the disposable part of the rifle. Shooting it as it was intended will destroy the barrel. How fast depends on the cartridge and the accuracy you are capable of as well as the accuracy you expect from the rifle.

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14 years 6 months ago #4319 by Louisiana Shooter
Picked it up today. The new Bushy .308s are DPMS made. This one is stamped "LR-308" on the frame. The trigger is a 2 stage and has a very clean break at 3.4 lbs with minimal overtravel. I'd guess that is the same 2 stage trigger that DPMS is putting on their LR-308L because I have never felt a trigger this clean on a Bushmaster.

Eotech batteries are dead, so it'll be a few more days befoe I shoot it.

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