Disappointing day at the range (JP Trigger)

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12 years 10 months ago - 11 years 8 months ago #9874 by gnappi
My first break in session was none indoors (75') without a target. I wanted to shoot and clean the barrel for a bit before taking it to the 100 yard range. I felt that the trigger was excessively stiff but wanted to see how it did at a later date as it came out of the box.

I took my two 308's to the range yesterday A DPMS LR-308T and my Springfield M1A NM. I had several different loads (2 165's with 3 different powders, a 180 and some Rem factory) to test out for a school I'm going to soon.

Boy, was the DPMS a disappointment. I could barely keep the rounds in a 6" circle, and trigger seemed to get HEAVIER as I used it. I pressed so hard I felt the time and ammo was a waste. I finally gave up on it and switched to the M1A which with one load kept rounds in an inch group.

This morning I tried to measure the trigger, but it was well beyond my trigger gauge of 7 pounds. I switched to a small can with a wire to my trigger pull adapter and started filling it with lead ingots and bullets. I got to 11 pounds 3+ ounces and the trigger STILL did not break!!!

So I called DPMS and they said 8 lbs is typical. I asked if they could do anything with the trigger and the support guy said that they would probably check it and return it untouched claiming it was "within specs"

He then suggested a JP trigger (at $120 which they sell) claiming that it would give me an ~ 4 pound trigger.

I'm not against getting another trigger but a STOCK one at nearly 12 pounds???

OK, so I need a trigger, does anyone have a JP or other one that's readily installed by a more than casual user of firearms that they could recommend? Any help would be appreciated.


TIA,

Gary
Last edit: 11 years 8 months ago by mlotziii.

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12 years 10 months ago - 11 years 8 months ago #9882 by LebbenB
Try a Giessle SSA 2 stage . I've got one in my M4 and it breaks clean at 5 pounds. It's a little spendy, but worth it.
Last edit: 11 years 8 months ago by mlotziii.

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12 years 10 months ago #9897 by Akai
gnappi, You can spend the money on a new trigger either Giessle or Timmey, Ive had both, and work just fine, but you could if you have any knowledge or want to gain the knowledge of how this gun or trigger works, not trying to insult anyone here, just how I roll, buy a polishing stone for a few bucks and give it an old time trigger job, this is a slow and teadius process, but well worth the effort, as you can dial her into whatever pull you desire.

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12 years 10 months ago #9966 by Lazerus2011
I've owned three DPMS built Remington R25 rifles and all three came out of the box with some of the most horrible [ ?HORRIBLEST?] trigger pulls I've ever seen on an AR type rifle. Which is a real shame, because the rest of the Rem R25 rifles [ except for the tacky camo paint jobs ] are of very decent quality. Once I sorted out the trigger pulls, all three of my R25 rifles ended up as SUB-moa shooters.

I tried to fit an RRA 2 stage AR 15 match trigger [ my favorite AR 15 upgrade ] into all three of my R25s, and never did get the RRA trigger to fit properly. The larger diameter AR 10 bolt seemed to rub excessively against the hammer while travelling. So, istead of grinding down the hammer on the RRA trigger set, I ended up using other alternatives.

One of my R25s got a JARD adjustable trigger installed. After installation, the JARD was set up at the maximum available 2.5 lbs. I found that 2.5 lbs was too low for me to use, and that I needed to take a few shots at the start of every range session just to get used to that light a trigger. A "surprise break" is generally a nice thing, but I was getting "surprises" a bit too often and a bit too early.

I only have one R25 left, and this one now has a do-it-yourself trigger job on the original trigger parts that is quite acceptable, at 4.5 lbs and crisp.

If you do a GOOGLE search for ten minute AR 15 trigger job, you will get some good advice on how to start improving your stock AR 10 trigger,
HOWEVER,
do NOT trim or bend the hammer spring on an AR 10, as the heavier primers in 7.62 NATO/ .308 Win cartridges require a heavier hammer spring to ensure reliable detonation.

Good luck with getting a decent trigger pull. A good trigger pull is a requirement for extracting accuracy from your rifle. Once you get the trigger sorted out, you might be quite pleased at how accurate your AR 10 really is.
LAZ 1
[;{)

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12 years 9 months ago #10189 by weshowe
Gents,

Before I spent $120+ on a new trigger I'd make sure the darn rifle was shooting OK.
Even with a 12 lb trigger you should be able to do better than 6"

Calling an almost 12 lb. trigger "within spec" is pure BS. If the rifle was build right a factory 5-6 trigger would be acceptable.

If it were me I'd start looking for another rifle rather than sinking money into one that may be a lemon from the start.

Wes
The following user(s) said Thank You: mlotziii

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12 years 9 months ago #10191 by CAlegalish

gnappi wrote: He then suggested a JP trigger (at $120 which they sell) claiming that it would give me an ~ 4 pound trigger


I recently installed a JP EZ trigger kit on my new build. It has 2 different hammer springs, one for "tactical" and one for competition. I spoke with Ben at JP who has been more than helpful in discussing my build. He recommends going with the tactical spring for anything other than competition. If you are going to use any "military/bulk" ammo, the competition spring may not strike the primer hard enough.

The installation was pretty straight forward with a booklet and DVD that guided you through the entire process. I haven't gotten out to the range yet because I am still waiting on my barrel and optics, however, the trigger is VERY nice. Light, crisp with virtually no over travel or creep. There are set screws on both the disconnecter and the trigger body that allow you to fine tune the setup.

Hope this helps.
Cal

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