The Sig 516 is a good stick, with a caveat - it's a piston system. While I don't have anything per se against piston ARs, I own both an LWRCi and a POF, a piston gun only really shines when firing supressed (which I do) or running heavy strings of fire.
Because there is no "standard" AR piston system, each company that offers a piston has it's own proprietary system. This effectively locks the purchaser into that particular brand. A DI gun is based on a known military standard; parts and upgrades are plentiful. A Colt's 6920 or 6720 can be had around the price point you mention. Other good options are the Smith & Wesson MP15 and BCM AR-15s.
Recently I have learned alot...I had to re-zero my scope for a match..to 200 yards...I tried the hold on and dial approach...wow.. :ohmy: what a F..k up that was....my scope is .25 per click @ 100 yards...so I went back to basic math...at 100 yards 1 click is .25" @ 100 yards..I took it to 3 clicks or hash marks if you will and was for the most part dead on...The "Clicks" depends on the how the scope is built...if it is MOA or Mil...there is a difference as Edge Stated...and remember..with each increment of 100 yards, each..."Click" differs..... .25 @ 100. .5 at 200. .75 at 300 and so on....at least with 1/4" MOA adjustments...Mils are a whole different story....
BMS
Did "The Bear" ever get this figured out? Haven't seen a reply from him.
BMS,
What scope do you have?
If your reticle is set up right, you can basically think of the center of each mil-dot being 3.5 MOA apart. So, if you are shooting at paper, and your impact was exactly 1 mil-dot low, then you need to dial up 3.5 MOA. So if your "clicks" are .25 moa each, then you need to come up 14 "clicks".
Using the example above, lets say your scope has .1 Mil turrets. Your impact was 1 Mil-dot low, so you dial up 1 Mil or 10 "clicks" on your scope. It's a bit easier, because you don't have to convert to moa.
(moral of the story, if you don't want to think too much, find a scope with turrets that match the reticle, MOA-MOA or MIL-MIL, however, nothing wrong with a good Mil reticle and MOA turrets)
If you want to use your dots for hold over, then you either need to use a ballistics program and/or test at the range to find out what range each mil-dot/mil-hash/MOA-hash is "zeroed" to. For example, if you zero your rifle, so that your cross-hairs are at 100 yards, then your first mil-dot down won't be 200 yards. It might be something like 246 yards. Your third mil-dot could be 364 yard zero, etc. This depends on your bullet and its velocity, as it will be different for each.
The nice thing about MIL-Dot, Mil-hash, MOA-hash reticles is that you can also use them to range a target of known size a bit easier and a bit more precicely than your standard cross-hair and velocity type reticles. (although it can be done with some of these reticle too, if you know a few things about the reticle)
BUILDING MY SASS wrote: Recently I have learned alot...I had to re-zero my scope for a match..to 200 yards...I tried the hold on and dial approach...wow.. :ohmy: what a F..k up that was....my scope is .25 per click @ 100 yards...so I went back to basic math...at 100 yards 1 click is .25" @ 100 yards..I took it to 3 clicks or hash marks if you will and was for the most part dead on...The "Clicks" depends on the how the scope is built...if it is MOA or Mil...there is a difference as Edge Stated...and remember..with each increment of 100 yards, each..."Click" differs..... .25 @ 100. .5 at 200. .75 at 300 and so on....at least with 1/4" MOA adjustments...Mils are a whole different story....
BMS
If you're still using a mil/MOA scope, try using a Mildot Master cheater card. Takes 90% of the math out of getting a firing solution.
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